So, if you live in Sandy Springs, Georgia, at some point or another you’re likely to get embroiled in a major discussion of epic culinary importance: what’s the best Mexican restaurant in town? On the one hand, you’ve got Taxco, about two miles inside the Perimeter (that’s ITP for those of you in the know), nestled between a bank and a bagel shop. On the other, you’ve got El Azteca, one mile north of the freeway (OTP), sitting in front of a big-box home improvement store and across from an upscale grocer.
Both feature your standard fare of Americanized Mexican food, combination lunch specials, festive atmospheres, large adult-oriented beverages, and endless baskets of tortilla chips. Both also feature their loyalists, customers who swear by one over the other as the King of Mexican in town.
Now ever since I can remember, I’ve been an El Azteca man. I was introduced to it (and a rather immense Texas Margarita) by my old roommate Jimbo several years ago. I’ve spent many a warm summer’s eve on their deck, sucking down cheese dip and a 32-ounce Dos Equis’. However, of late, I’ve had several Taxco fanatics insist that I give their place a try. “Its so much better,” they’ll say. “You don’t know what you’re missing”, a common theme. So last Saturday night, the missus and I trekked to Taxco to give it a try. And, to give ourselves a clean comparison, we rolled into El Azteca on Thursday.
(Brief aside: I have no idea how neither of us are 300 pounds either. It’s either clean living in other aspects of our lives or the early morning workouts that are keeping us svelte.)
Here’s my comparison of the two contenders on several key attributes:
Chips & Salsa: Its chips. Its salsa. Its not actually served in Mexico, but who cares? To me, El Azteca’s chips seemed a little more flavorful and its salsa a little hardier. Taxco’s salsa was a tad watery. Winner: El Azteca.
Cheese Dip: Is there nothing better than melted cheese? Add a few jalapenos and its like heaven in a bowl. El Azteca’s version was as basic (and delicious) as they come. Taxco’s had a sweet little aftertaste. I have to admit, I kinda liked it. Winner: Taxco.
Texas Margarita: What makes a Margarita Texas-style? A splash of Cointreau and/or Orange Juice, so I’m told. El Azteca’s Texas Margarita was a treat, a perfect blend of tequila and other liqueurs. The Taxco edition, a little heavy on the tequila. Winner: El Azteca.
Beer Selection: Any place that serves a 32-ounce beer is fine by me. For Mexican fare, Dos Equis Amber is best IMHO. Just don’t drink and drive people; actually know your limits (they’re about a third of what you think they are). Winner: Push.
Tamales: I love me a good tamale. For dinner, I think they should be made of pork. I could not get this at Taxco. I could get this at El Azteca. Winner: El Azteca.
Mmmm...pork tamales
Service: Both places had friendly and courteous wait staffs. However, the speed of service at El Azteca is always absolutely amazing. You could literally be in and out of there in 20 minutes. Or you could linger for hours. I’ve done both. Winner: El Azteca.
Atmosphere: Taxco’s a little smaller than El Azteca, giving it a more intimate (and genuinely Mexican) feel. El Azteca nearly always has a fiesta-atmosphere, with a mariache band often playing on the weekend; its loud and boisterous. Winner: Push (depends entirely on your mood, I suppose).
Prices: Having dinner for two? You’ll get out of either place under $30. Winner: Push.
As far as the great Sandy Springs Mexican restaurant debate goes, El Azteca remains the champion in my book. I’m not opposed to a visit to Taxco now and then, mind you. But if I’m selecting the place, I’m going OTP rather than ITP.